Vatican Museum, Day 4

En route to my daily double shot cappuccino at Rubertos, I heard noisy cooing overhead, looked up and saw a nest preciously balanced on a light fixture. A pair of pigeons were flying in breakfast and standing sentry. Spring is in the air. That’s mama’s wing in the top center.I  was greeted at the Vatican door by Simona, my tour guide.  Simona has the kind of enthusiasm for art, history, and faith that can’t be manufactured. She ran – literally sprinted –  to the Sistine Chapel and we sat together while she whispered about  Michelangelo’s process.  She acknowledged the other artistic achievements on the wall – Botticelli is a standout – whose work is eclipsed by the tour de force of Michelangelo’s ceiling. I’d never noticed that Adam and Jesus share the same face. We agreed Savonarola, who convinced Botticelli to burn his paintings, had a lot of ‘splaining to do. As we walked through the rooms she pointed out where Roman architecture in frescoed backgrounds is a gift to historians. She knew the names of Raphael’s friends and mentors in the School of Athens. I was looking for la Fornarina’s face. I told her about my interest in reliquaries and she knew right where to find them.

[easy-image-collage id=2916]

Check out the simple but effective pierced base of the ivory box. I am so stealing that! Limoges made such delicious blues.
She pointed to a simple yet beautifully painted crucifix I might have passed by and told me it was carried by Loius XVI as he climbed to the guillotine. Holy cow. She talked knowledgeably about repoussé and engraving techniques. When we both blanked on the word chasing, she pulled out a notebook where she’d written English translations of art-related terminology. She takes her job so seriously she’d done homework. We are kindred nerd spirits. She’s done icon painting using original methods. She says she solved a difficulty with one of them after spending three days in meditation and prayer, the method of the original icon artist. Seriously, I will have to try that the next time I am stumped.
All in all, a fantastic guide, Insightful, knowledgeable and patient, with a great sense of humor. I can’t imagine a better companion for an artist. If you want her contact deets, hit me up.We took a detour so I could meet the kind people in the Patron relations department who’ve been wrangling my requests for this trip. A trio of delightful young women greeted me, and couldn’t have been nicer. They took me and my art-fueled enthusiasm in stride. Thanks, ladies.
Becoming a Vatican Museum Patron includes a choice of tours as a perk of membership. I selected a tour of the restoration department. Boy, did I pick the right thing. It was fascinating to see the restoration in progress, and have the opportunity to meet the professionals who, patiently and with great skill, perform this labor. There are in-house staff and several permalancers.  One person was cleaning a modern art piece that so many people touched it was discolored. Apparently, if it’s made of brass it’s a magnet to swiping fingers. Another restoration in progress was a shield in shards as thin as paper, sections supported by filament-thin line. A few gaps were filled in with paper, painted with watercolor glaze. I have photos, but only for personal use, specifically not for public media. Sorry!
Other restorers were undoing the damage caused by the clumsy efforts of former restorers, like fabricating missing parts, or using substances that accelerated deterioration. Currently, the ideal is to halt decay and remove fake elements, leaving only the original and authentic. The work schedule is set two years out. They don’t get to pick and chose which projects to tackle. Some religious objects require delicate handling – reliquaries can’t be touched unless the relics are removed, which can’t happen without Bishop’s oversight. A project needs four months of study and two months of work. Think about that. Nerd girl nirvana! I could have sat in for days.
This has been a wonderful experience for me.  I am looking forward to singing their praises to the Atlanta Chapter.
Meanwhile, bd sure to look up. This time, it’s Raphael’s Adam and Eve.