Tuesday, April 19, Hermitage

Back to the Hermitage. Hey, it’s why I filled out all that paperwork and journeyed all these miles. Totally worth it.

After downing a double shot Double B latte, my goal was a thorough look at the French rooms and the small English collection. Passing by the classical Baroque painter Nicolas Poussin, I heard something outside the window. More band practice, or as I like to think of it, the Hermitage halftime show.

 

A lovely Raeburn portrait captivated me, as did this partially completed portrait of a general.

I love these incomplete works, the intention of the artist and his bold beginning still visible.

I lingered in a large room lined with glass cabinets filled with mostly silver and gilded silver objects; variations on goblets, boxes, serving trays, dishes and vanity sets. Took way too many photos to post, but here are two standouts:

A dragon devouring a horse on top of a tankard.

I guess St George lost this one.

The Big Chicken, Hermitage-style.

Turn right at the Big Chicken to get to the throne room.

Stumbled into the throne room. I think the Russians invented the phrase, “Winter is coming.”

Game of Thrones, Russian Division. Winter is coming.

Very imposing. I especially liked the ceiling.

Looking up.

I was fascinated by  a small exhibition about restoration of embellishment and embroidery.

Made me itch to pick a needle.

Then I stumbled across the white and gold baroque chapel. The lines from Keats’ poem, On First Looking into Chapman’s Homer, popped into my head.  “Much have I travelled in the realms of gold,/And many goodly states and kingdoms seen;”

There were interesting liturgical bits and pieces, all of Romanov dynasty historical significance.

detail of an icon

During my lunch break in the cafe, I drew cherubs on the backs of postcards to send home. Afterwards I went in search of the postoffice annex inside the Hermitage. Up I went to the top floors, down they sent me to the basement, I just couldn’t locate it. Tomorrow I’ll give it another go.

Walked to Fruktovaya Lavka  after for another stellar meal (sous vide turkey breast, with parsnip puree and cherry sauce, buttered mixed Cruciferae vegetables, and raspberry tart on crème anglaise).

Trying to figure out where to go to buy authentic and interesting Russian goods  not made in China and not nesting dolls. Not making great progress, but ever hopeful.